Foxlow, Soho, London
Foxlow arrived to the crowded Soho scene earlier this year and launched with a buzzing half price offer. This was enough incentive to get a dining group from the office along. The style is British-Euro and it’s reasonably good, but might need some time to find it’s feet amongst the myriad of other food options about. Brunch is another, unexplored story.
The tale of Foxlow is that it is a group of restaurants already established in some parts of London, with some ties to the founders of the much lauded Hawksmoor. It’s a more casual affair here thankfully, with the aim being to create a neighbourhood-style restaurant. The menu is brasserie-led using produce from local growers. There’s two seperate acts with brunch and dinner, and we were here for the latter.
Half price offers are so good, it makes ordering anything a bit of a steal. Super good for a greedy git like me! And I got greedy, ordering the fried chicken, the kale salad AND the baked alaska. Between myself and the rest of the table, we ordered a good majority of the offerings. Other things that sounded delicious were the steaks and burgers.
The fried chicken is £7 for two pieces and comes with a zesty apple and fennel slaw, along with habanero vinegar. I can’t say it was my favourite chicken though. The batter doesn’t taste magical and I like the slaw, but not as much as I think I should like the chicken. Did that make sense? Everyone with the burgers and steaks seem happy with their choices.
The other main item I had was more enjoyable, this was a Godzilla-sized bed of kale along with roasted sweet potato. It’s well dressed so there’s plenty of seasoning strewn across the dish. I like the crispy kale, and the dressing is creamy and light. The sweet potato is a little dry, so that sauce does come in handy to remedy that.
My favourite piece of the meal was the end. I ordered the Baked Alaska with passionfruit, which astonishes with it’s impressive toasted peaks and passionfruit sprinkling. The meringue has a delicate sweetness that hides the delicious ice-cream inside. It skewed on the side of citrus-y with the use of the fruit, but it made for a happy ending at Foxlow.
I’ve noticed the current menu is has few differences, as even two out of the three things I had have already been replaced. It’s probably a good thing, it shows they adapt to seasonal produce as well as experiment with things. On the other hand, things felt more classic than cutting-edge. Nothing was especially out there, or something I would remember for a while. A few more bold twists on some of the dishes would help it shine.