Maître Choux, South Kensington, London
So this is a very good eclair at Maître Choux. But it’s also outrageously expensive. It’s £4.90 – £5.80 PER eclair, with another pound slapped on if you dine in. That was more than my lunch. Yes, Joakim Prat is a three Michelin star pastry chef, but these weren’t the best eclairs I’ve had to date. Prat was previously head pastry chef at the Can Fabes in Spain and Greenhouse and L’atelier de Joël Robuchon in London.
There are some fans of these pretty patisserie for sure as the store opened two years ago and it’s still going strong. As well as masses of eclairs, they also saw choux and chouquettes. The choquette is a pastry ball topped with naughty pearl sugar. My server was super nice and gave me a free one to sample. And I can report these are very good too.
The title of my favourite eclairs would go to Christophe Adam’s L’éclair de génie (for now). They don’t feel like breaking the banks in the way these ones do. I would agree that the Maître Choux ones are some of the prettiest I’ve seen and the shops in a fitting suburb for the aesthetics. This was a busy store and there were plenty of people more than happy to try them out too. Lots of boxes. It’s quite a small setup in South Kensington with only a few tables but I guess with the heavy dine-in charge most customers would opt to takeaway.
I went for the perfectly pink and feminine Delice Rose A La Framboise (Spanish Raspberry Pink) and this was delicious. A good eclair, a fruity, full-on filling. The mousse has a slight sourness which balances out the sweetness of the fresh raspberries, as well as undertones of rose water. It passes the freshness test. At Maître Choux they go all out with custom printed chocolates, edible pearls and gold leaf. There’s no expense spared. How fitting. It’s a good treat but a pricey one.